The Art of Tapas: Where to Find the Best Small Plates in Madrid
Spanish cuisine has been lauded, praised and celebrated around the world, with chefs like Andoni Luis Aduriz and Dani García demonstrating how exciting both Catalan and Basque cuisine can be. While many Spanish chefs, including Ferran Adrià and José Andrés, have made names for themselves by reinventing their food using molecular gastronomy, many self-professed foodies will tell you that when in Spain, don’t bother investing in a hefty tasting menu—tapas are the way to go when you want to experience the best of Spanish food.
Originating in Spain, tapas have made their way to kitchens around the world, from New York and Tokyo to London and Shanghai. One of the earliest mentions of tapas reportedly dates back to the 13th century, when the Spanish King Alfonso X recovered from a serious illness by eating tiny morsels of food to regain his appetite and strength. The king apparently fell in love with eating and drinking at the same time, and henceforth ordered all taverns to serve food with their drinks.
But what, exactly, are tapas? Tapas are small plates and snacks or bites of food enjoyed at any time of day; classics include gildas (skewers of olives and anchovies), croquetas (breaded and fried meat and cheese balls), and gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp). For many Spanish chefs, tapas are more than just a food; they’re a way of life. “It is how we connect—a tapa is a conversation—informal, shared and spontaneous,” chef Dani García of Smoked Room and Dani Brasserie in Madrid tells Observer. Inherently a social experience, there are no rules on how to “tapear,” or go out for tapas. It can be a simple act of going out for a pre-dinner drink with friends or grabbing an informal meal with colleagues to celebrate the end of a work week—no matter what, there’s always a place and time for tapas in Spain.
Madrid is one of the best places for tapas, with both old and new tapas venues converging in one city. In the capital, you will find some of Spain’s oldest taverns still in operation, including Lhardy and Bodega de la Ardosa (if you visit when they’re in season, try the artichokes in Spanish olive oil), serving traditional tapas. There’s also Cava Baja, a tourist-friendly street in the La Latina neighborhood known for tapas, but not always a local’s first choice for the best food tour in the city. Elsewhere around Madrid, a new vanguard of young chefs has opened up restaurants, putting their own spins on both classic and avant-garde tapas in spots like Gofio, a restaurant serving bite-sized, tapas-like dishes as a tasting menu in the heart of the city. Madrid, not necessarily seen as a gastronomic city in the past in the same way as other Spanish locales like Barcelona, has now turned into a culinary destination, with tapas culture leading the charge. Below, check out the best tapas bars in Madrid for an unexpected and elevated experience.
