A Travel Guide to Montana’s Bitterroot Valley, Where the West Still Feels Wild
The Bitterroot Valley of western Montana is one of the last truly wild places, unspoiled by traffic or crowds. Forget the large ski resorts of Big Sky or the ever-growing city of Bozeman, and venture southwest, where lift lines are nonexistent, and downtowns remain charmingly uncommercialized. Though Glacier and Yellowstone have their undeniable charms, you can find pristine wilderness and roaming wildlife without the park fees and crowded trailheads in the 1.6-million-acre Bitterroot National Forest. The Bitterroot Valley feels like one of the last true hidden gems out West.
The Bitterroot remains an underrated tourist destination, but its scenery is familiar to millions of Americans—the region is the backdrop for the television series Yellowstone, with Chief Joseph Ranch serving as the exterior filming location for Dutton Ranch. Part of the reason it remains so under-the-radar—a special feat considering the throngs of Americans who ventured west during the pandemic—is its remoteness. The nearest airport is in Missoula, and from there it’s about an hour’s drive south into the Bitterroot. U.S. Highway 93 runs through the length of the valley, roughly 90 miles from Lolo down to Lost Trail Pass along the Continental Divide. Even the drive feels like a safari in America’s Serengeti, with bighorn sheep, elk, white-tailed deer, and the occasional moose or bear.
Of course, the magic of the Bitterroot is known to a select few, earning the region’s nickname of “billionaire country” due to the ever-increasing number of wealthy visitors-turned-residents who fall in love with the majestic landscapes of Big Sky Country. But in the Bitterroot, quiet luxury reigns. Nothing is overstated, as the priceless offering is the essence of the Old West that prevails. A frontier ethos persists both visually and spiritually—the rugged terrain is framed by the Sapphire Mountains to the east and the Bitterroot Mountains to the west, with towns like Hamilton, Florence, Darby and Philipsburg scattered amongst a vast expanse of wilderness. But it won’t remain so unspoiled forever, so travelers should plan their trip now.
Winter is the best time to visit; the high season is actually summer, so during the cooler months, you’ll experience the mountains sans the annual tourists, and the “Banana Belt” climate ensures that temperatures remain more temperate year-round. Plus, the alpine forests and river valleys look most beautiful when coated with fresh snow. And, fortunately, after an unseasonably dry season throughout the American West, western Montana is finally experiencing heavy snowfall—perfect for hitting the slopes in the Bitterroot and Sapphire Mountains. Read on to discover the best of the Bitterroot, from high-end ranches and precious gems to down-home steakhouses and handcrafted whiskey, and all the alpine adventure your heart desires. Giddy-up.
